Italians treat eating as one of the most joyful pleasures in life. What would a conversation about Italy be without discussing food? It’s not uncommon to be planning your next meal whilst eating your current one. And under no circumstances should a meal be rushed.

For Italian dining novices, an Italian menu can be daunting and often begs the question “Do I have to eat three courses?” Confronted with Antipasti, Primi, Secondi, Contorni and Dolci, you can understand the confusion. It is perfectly acceptable to choose one course for lunch. Perhaps choose an Antipasti and Primi or Secondi and Dolci for dinner.

Italy has a lot of food rules, but an important one to remember is that Italians do not share meals, especially pasta. Having said that, we do sometimes share pizza.

Each course is intended to complement the one before and the one after. Let’s break it down.

Antipasti

Ancient Romans coined the term antipasto (literally “before the meal”) and were known to enjoy this course as part of their elaborate banquets. Antipasti may consist of small plates of bruschetta, salumi, fruit such as melon or figs and soft cheeses like mozzarella and burrata.

Primi

Primi, meaning first courses, typically features pasta and rice. Every region in Italy has its own specialty pasta and accompanying sauce. Carbonara, spaghetti tossed with a sauce of raw, beaten eggs, topped with crispy cured guanciale meat, is Rome’s specialty. Sicily’s Pasta alla Norma, a small taste of southern summer on a plate, combines penne rigate, eggplant and tomato, with a healthy smattering of ricotta salata and basil. Spaghetti alle vongole (clams) can be traced back to the coastal regions of Naples, where clams have been harvested for over 9,000 years.

Emilia-Romagna proudly wears its title of tortellini capital; Bari in Puglia is famous for orecchiette con cime di rapa, pasta shaped like little ears with turnip greens; Liguria’s specialty is trofie al pesto - after all, pesto was invented in Liguria.

There are more than 350 shapes of pasta and an infinite number of recipes. The key is to know the specialty of the region and remember your pasta rules. Never ask for parmesan (Parmigiano-Reggiano) if you have ordered a seafood pasta. In fact, if it isn’t offered, don’t ask. Not every pasta is meant to have cheese.

If you are in the north, especially in the region of Lombardy (capital Milan) where rice is rich, it is common to find risotto in the first course.

Good to know

Italy is widely considered one of the easiest and safest places in the world to find gluten-free pasta, pizza and pastries. Despite its carb-heavy reputation, Italy has a deep cultural awareness of celiac disease. The Italian phrase is “senza glutine”, without gluten.

Secondi

Carnivores rejoice. Secondi, meaning second courses, celebrates protein and meat. Popular secondi include pollo (chicken), bistecca (steak), manzo (beef), agnello (lamb) or frutti di mare (seafood). The dish may be cooked al forno (baked), fritto (fried) or alla griglia (grilled).

If ordering steak, you’ll only just get away with medium rare. Never ask for well done, unless you want the chef storming out of the kitchen brandishing a knife.

All is not lost for vegetarians and vegans. Italian chefs can turn even the humblest vegetables into a mouth-watering dish. Aubergine Parmigiana, a layered dish of tomato, aubergine and mozzarella, is a worthy rival to any roast meat.

Contorni

The second course, in whatever form, needs something to accompany it, and that’s where the contorni (side dishes) come in. The choices are generally grilled seasonal vegetables or salads. Some of the most popular include patate al forno (oven baked potatoes), spinaci (spinach), verdure miste (mixed vegetables) and insalate verde (green salad).

Dolci

It’s almost impossible to resist the dessert course! Choosing seasonal and regional desserts specific to a town or region is heavenly. Made with as much love and pride as the rest of the meal, Italian dessert recipes are usually simple, yet deliciously indulgent.

It’s hard to go past the classic tiramisu, which means “pick me up”. There are many versions, depending what region you’re in, but the traditional recipe is layers of lady-finger sponge biscuits, Savoiardi or Pavesini, dipped into a shot of fresh espresso, a lightly whipped zabaglione and mascarpone, and a thick coating of cocoa powder. Most say the dessert was first made in the 1960s in Treviso in the region of Veneto, although others like to lay claim to the invention of this popular dessert.

Digestivo

It’s not over until the digestivo is poured! Usually taking the form of an amaro, translating literally to bitter or sour, it’s a blanket term for a herbal liqueur said to aid digestion. Or you might choose a grappa (too strong for me) or a limoncello (my favourite). It’s the very last thing you consume at the table, after coffee (espresso and never cappuccino!) and it’s rare for Italians to go without.

BUON APPETITO!

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb