Found a window of opportunity as we travel 300 kilometres per hour on a three hour train journey from Milan to Rome. The first tour of the season, Tuscany/Italian Riviera/Lake Como, finished in Milan this morning and the next tour, Matera/Amalfi Coast begins this afternoon in Rome. Spring is definitely in the air with a forecast of sunny, blue skies and 23 degrees. And it’s Labour Day, a national holiday in Italy, so families will be picnicking in the parks and enjoying long lunches. All quite perfect really.

Sharing the highlights of Tuscany/Italian Riviera/Lake Como may be a nostalgic memory for all who have travelled with me through this part of Italy and for those coming in September and 2027, perhaps an exciting teaser!

Nothing beats greeting day one with an early morning walk through the streets with only the dog walkers, rubbish collection trucks watering the streets, a few joggers and a bridal shoot in front of the Pantheon. First breakfast is the best cappuccino in town and a cornetto con crema at my local before returning via hidden alleyways and stunning piazzas to our perfectly positioned Hotel three minutes from the top of the Spanish Steps.

It’s no surprise that everyone’s highlight in Rome was our four hour vespa ride. Not just our leader, but all of the drivers share an intimate knowledge of historic Rome as we scooter through neighbourhoods away from tourists, including Rome’s first highway, the Via Appia Antica (Appian Way) built in 312 BC.

Italy is a small country! With an average width of 160 kilometres and a total length of 1,185 kilometres, we had morning tea in Civita di Bagnoregio in Lazio with the only access via an 800 metre long concrete bridge, lunch in Orvieto in Umbria that sits 1,000 feet above the valley floor and aperitivo in Montepulciano, our home for the next three days in the heart of Tuscany.

Everyone fell in love with our stunning accommodation, our quintessential Tuscan town, wonderful food and wine and the infamous walk along the winding white road bordered by cypress trees to the neighbouring hilltop town of Montefollonico for an unforgettable lunch of Cacio e Pepe served by the incorrigible Albo and Matteo. I learnt something this trip. Music is the key to walking up a hill and the song is “I’m Gonna Be (500 miles)” by the Proclaimers. My gosh, everyone was so impressive marching up that hill!

Only 40 minutes from Montepulciano is one of the oldest hilltop towns in Italy called Cortona which is an absolute delight to wander for a few hours. On this day, my favourite tucked away trattoria was closed, but the owner was inside, so happily opened just for us. Gotta love Italy!

Arriving mid afternoon at our Tuscan villa on 18 acres not far from the gates of the historic centre is like a dream. A 20 minute walk takes us to the stunning Piazza del Campo, shaped like a shell and home of the famous horse race called the Palio.

In Siena, being “local” is often defined by the Contrada (neighbourhood) in which a person lives within the historic centre, and most locals will identify more strongly with their specific district than the city as a whole. There are 17 neighbourhoods, each with their own museum, church, fountain, club and stables for a race that is run two times a year, on 2nd July and 16th August. A race that is over in less than 90 seconds, but allows the winning neighbourhood bragging rights for a year! Roberta, our wonderful Siena born guide, takes us on an intimate two hour walk through the streets, at the end of which everyone has a true appreciation of how a horse race creates an incredibly strong sense of community and belonging that is lifelong.

Imagine three hilltop, medieval villages in one day! Giovanni picks us from our villa after breakfast for our first village less than an hour away called San Gimignano, once home to 72 towers, but now with only 14. It’s everything you imagine, with incredible vistas at every corner. Next is Volterra, a town dating back to 7th century BC, famous for alabaster and the perfect village for lunch. Our magical day concludes at Monteriggioni, a tiny village surrounded by a completely intact wall, where it’s time for an early aperitivo.

Who can resist the Cinque Terre, despite the crowds. Monterosso al Mare is the perfect village to stay for three days in our intimate B&B that feels like 5 star accommodation. To truly appreciate the villages clinging to the cliffside like tumbling lego, a ferry ride to Riomaggiore captures it all. My best tip for total immersion is to take it slowly and wander each village away from the tourists, although it was surprisingly quiet. Skip the first leg walking from Riomaggiore to Manarola because it is very short and you have to book a time. The next leg from Manarola to Corniglia has been closed for years due to landslides, but the best two legs to walk are from Corniglia to Vernazza and then on to Monterosso al Mare. We wait until 4:00pm to start walking, as the daytrippers have left, so there are very few walkers. That is the key!

A day of sun, sea and salt starting with a seaside five kilometre walk from Santa Margherita to Portofino, followed by a delicious seafood lunch on a pebbly beach in San Fruttuoso. Doesn’t get better than that!

Bellagio captured my heart at first glimpse in 2009 and hasn’t let go. It is impossible not to be smitten with the pearl of the lake nestling on a promontory that juts out into the inverted ‘Y’ shape of Lago di Como. Everywhere you look is incredibly picturesque with the Alps at the northern end, thickly wooded craggy mountains, stunning gardens and ornate villas.

The best way to see the lake is from the lake, so no better way than to meet Michele for a guided two hour kayak from the Lecco branch to the Como branch. Even with choppy waters, everyone rallied and kayaked with gusto and enthusiasm!

Three nights is no more than a peek into all that can be explored from ferry hopping to Cadenabbia, Menaggio and Varenna to walking through gorgeous hamlets on the promontory famous for nurseries. Friendly locals, a fantastic hidden cellar with walls lined with superb wine, amazing food and shops that will tempt and seduce all combine to make Bellagio simply irresistible.

Ci vediamo la prossima settimana.

Deb